Pella

Pella was the capital of the Kingdom of Macedon.

It was one of the largest planned cities in the world until, after the Romans conquered the Kingdom of Macedon, the inlet to the Thermaic Gulf silted and an earthquake leveled most of the city. This makes the ruins unique because they have less Latin influence than other Greek cities conquered and occupied by the Romans.

Pella was also a rich trade hub on the Via Egnatia between Dyrrachium (Durres in Albania) and Thessalonika.

The city was incredibly wealthy, and as it is unearthed, its clear styles in Pompeii were inspired by Pella.

A lead weight with a bear eating on it

Statues of the Macedonian version of Athena, with a three pronged helmet

I don't think I would drink out of that.

Part of a couch

Gilded clay griffins attacking deer on a funerary couch

The Goddess of the Underworld

Iron Age goods from the region look similar to other parts of Europe.

Gold burial masks with helmets from Archontiko, the Macedonian precursor to Pella

A "heroic" set of grave goods

Women were also buried with golden death masks.

Reproductions of terracotta figurines that could be found around Pella in Macedonian times.

Pella ruins are a short drive from the archeological museum in town. Only a small portion has been unearthed, but the ruin is still many city blocks.

Bathtubs at the public bath

Who knows what grand mosaics are still waiting to be unearthed?

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki is the second largest city in Greece and capital of the Greek region of Macedonia. We stayed in the Electra Palace hotel overlooking Aristotelous (Aristotle) Square. Aristotle was born on the other side of the Chalkidiki Peninsula.

The Orizontes Roof Garden Restaurant at the hotel had great food and wine. Wine made from local Xinomavro grapes went well with strawberry and roe butter.

The smoked eel and eggplant appetizer

Beef sofigado

The White Tower of Thessaloniki was constructed by the Ottomans in the 15th century.

The Tower was used as a prison in addition to a fortress/garrison. A massacre of Janissaries took place there in the 1800s.

There are nice views at the top of the Tower.

Thessaloniki was founded by King Cassander of Macedon, who ruled the Kingdom after his father, Antipater. Antipater ruled Macedonia as regent for Alexander the Great before Alexander's death. This statue of Alexander the Great is somewhat ironic considering Cassander killed Alexander's son and heir, Alexander IV, to consolidate power.

Art in the park

The Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki has some great finds. The oldest writing in the region, from the 7th century B.C., says "mine."

The band is back together.

A warrior with a golden death mask from ~520 B.C., from before the unification of Macedonia.

A mosaic of Dionysus from the 200s A.D., when Romans ruled the region.

Oxen figurines from a child's grave from around 100 B.C. - 100 A.D.

Gilded silver grave decorations of the Greek Gods from ~330 B.C., around the time of Philip II and Alexander the Great.

A golden wreath worn in life and death to symbolize importance in Macedonian society.

The Derveni Crater, a 4th century urn first used to mix wine with water, and later used to hold the deceased's ashes.

The Museum of Byzantine Culture picks up where the Archaeological Museum leaves off. The mosaic signs are a nice touch.

Nice designs!

Byzantine clothes

A tomb from the 4th century A.D., the period where many residents of Thessaloniki converted to Christianity.

These slabs are from the 10th-11th centuries. How aesthetics change.

Impressive jewelry from the 9th-10th centuries

The museum also had some interesting modern art.

A significant portion of downtown Thessaloniki is built over Roman Emperor Galerius's palace from the 4th century.

We ate lunch near some of the ruins at Ουζερί Λόλα. The squid stuffed with feta cheese was a highlight.

The dessert was great too!

The Arch of Galerius commemorates his victory over the Sassanid Persians in the Battle of Satala, a zenith of Roman power in the East. The Arch was dedicated in 303 A.D.

The Rotunda of Galerius was built at the same time. Originally intended to be his mausoleum, it was converted into a Christian church.

The mosaics in the Rotunda are still in good condition considering they are over 1000 years old.

One of few surviving reminders many of Thessaloniki's churches were converted into mosques during Ottoman rule.

We also visited Ataturk's childhood home next to the Turkish Embassy. He was born in Thessaloniki; the city was ceded from the Ottoman Empire to the Greeks during his lifetime.

Security is pretty tight at the Museum. To get in you have to go through a gate like you are entering the Embassy compound.

Thessaloniki is a thriving city that is definitely worth a visit. Its great restaurants and sights combined with day trips to Pella and Aigai make it one of my favorite places I have visited while in Europe.