Sunday, March 20, 2022

Brussels

Brussels is the capital of Belgium. Much of Belgium's wealth as an independent country was derived from exploiting the Congo.

King Leopold II built the Royal Museum for Central Africa to entice investors into helping him strip the Congo of resources. The museum was only recently re-imagined to focus on the cultures of Africa and provenance research - finding out where looted objects came from.

The wall of things that are still racist

The first exhibit in the museum shows the old statues featured in the museum.

There was a struggle over what the museum should be. In 2013.

Mukanda masks

A variety of masks from Africa

A traffic direction robot from the DRC.

The museum has covered up statues of white Belgians helping the Congolese rise out of their perceived savage state. 

The Bali people in north-east Congo did actually assassinate people using claws dressed as leopards.

The royal mask of the Kuba people

A nkisi contains a spirit of an ancestor. You can drive nails into the statue to activate it to help you.

These ones got a lot of use. They were supposed to ward off sleeping sickness.

Besides being home to some of the greatest crimes against humanity, Belgium also has some great beer.

And some odd restaurant mascots.

No trip to Brussels is complete without a trip to Maison Dandoy for a waffle with Speculoos and a coffee.

Brussels is the capital of the EU and hosts the Parlamentarium, a museum about the EU. It was actually pretty interesting, if a bit saccharine.

Right now all of Europe can agree on one thing: Russia bad, Ukraine good.

I'm not sure why these ostriches had their heads in the sand next to the EU complex.

The Parc du Cinquantenaire houses many museums, including the Musee Art & Histoire.

It has a great collection of artifacts from around the world. Also some looted, I'm sure.

They had a great exhibit about aboriginal art from Australia. Some tribes would dry and crush their dead, then place them in these hollow burial poles.

Sacred hearts

Looks like Belgium had some German influence.

Not your average Christ rising from the dead

Spooky tombstones from the 1200s

A ghost you definitely don't want to encounter in a church at night

Who knew tapestries could be so much fun?

Brooches found in Belgium during the 500s-700s.

They also had very fashionable beads back then.

The reliquary of Pope Alexander from 1145

With sleds, your imagination is the limit.

Art Nouveau... does it belong in a museum?

The museum was enormous. We were pretty exhausted by the time we reached the other half.

Cuneiform tables with friezes

I think this is a Mamluk Sultan's helmet from the 1300s. I can't read Dutch or French...

This tile panel shows a man fleeing from lions. It was made in Isfahan for the Safavid shah in the 17th century.

A vase made during the reign of Napoleon, showing the trials of Hercules in kind-of classical style

The Belgian Triumphal Arch, constructed in 1905

The Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gulda is Brussels most prominent religious building.

Saint Gudula lived in an abbey in Brabant in the 600s, and was known for her good works. 

The main structure of the church took 300 years to complete, from 1226 to 1519. Charles V was crowned King of Spain here soon after.

The most impressive spot in Brussels is the Grand Palace, encircled with building glowing with gold inlay, built in the 14th century.

Brussels was extremely wealthy from being on the trade routes between Bruges, Ghent, and Cologne, and later as the capital of the Burgundian Netherlands.

You have to eat mussels in Brussels, so we dined at Chez Leon. The restaurant is self-aware that its kind of a tourist trap.

At least their having a good time.

They were also famous for this appetizer, with tiny shrimps and a tomato filled with something like mayonnaise. I'm not quite sure what to make of it.

The mussels, as you would expect, were excellent.

 

Heidelberg

Heidelberg was the capital of the Electorate of the Palatinate and is home to a giant abandoned castle straight from Resident Evil.

It was pretty abandoned due to COVID and the weather; I think the castle is a very popular tourist attraction in warmer months.
A cadet branch of the House of Wittelsbach ruled from Heidelberg Castle. After being built up from the 1100s to the 1500s, it fell into disrepair after Frederick V, the Winter King, played his cards wrong during the Thirty Years War.
 
During the 30 Years War, Heidelberg was attacked by the Holy Roman Empire and the Swedes, causing the first part of its destruction.

Later the French and Germans fought over succession of the lands of the Palatinate, and the French strategically destroyed much of Heidelberg in the late 1600s.

The Castle was completely abandoned when the Elector Palatine, who was Catholic, grew tired of dealing with his Protestant subjects, and moved his court to Mannheim.

There is a little pharmacy museum inside Heidelberg Castle.


This pelican is feeding its offspring with its own blood. An odd sign for a pharmacy.

There was also a wine tasting venue that was shut down due to COVID.

All I wanted was to be served wine by Perkeo, Heidelberg's jester.

Behold the largest wine barrel in Germany! Europe? The World?!

Heidelberg is a strange place to visit off-season. Miss the crowds, feel like you survived the Apocalypse. 


Speyer

Speyer, located in the Rhineland-Palatinate, is one of Germany's oldest cities and home to Speyer Cathedral.

Speyer was settled by Romans and refounded by Franks.

Work on Speyer Cathedral started in 1030. It is the largest still-standing Romanesque church.

Eight Holy Roman Emperors were buried here from the 1000s to 1300s.

Technically some were only Kings of Germany because they weren't crowned Holy Roman Emperor by the Pope.

Their tombs are not very ornate.

Speyer Cathedral also has some spooky reliquaries.

Saint Bone Flair