Thursday, January 31, 2013

Troy

From Canakkale we visited Troy on our way to Pergamon.
Canakkale had an excellent museum which housed a coastal fort and some awesome Ataturk artwork.
This is a replica of the mine-layer that planted the mines that thwarted British attempts to take Istanbul by sea during WWI.
Inside was an awesome indepth presentation of the battle for the straights which consisted of a beautifully crafted terrain model with light effects for the shelling of the coast and a video screen for the water showing where the ships and mines were.
Of course Troy has a replica Trojan horse.
Troy ruins actually consists of nine different cities built on top of one another. Troy VII is thought to be the Homeric Troy.
Troy was discovered during an expedition funded by German businessman Heinrich Schliemann in the 1870s. Schliemann excavated the ruins poorly, but found a cache of gold known as Priam's Treasure. Schliemann smuggled some of the treasure out of Turkey back to Germany, where the Soviets eventually got a hold of it during WWII. Russia now refuses to give back to Turkey what it claims to be "war reparations from Germany;"  the treasure is now housed in the Pushkin Museum. Above is a picture of Schliemann's daughter wearing the treasure.

Troy kittens!

Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Gallipoli

The Gallipoli Campaign during WWI was a defining moment in Anzac and Turkish nationalism and launched Ataturk on the path to greatness. The Gallipoli Peninsula now houses many monuments to the war and an excellent (and surprisingly technical) museum on the subject.
The town of Gelibolu houses the Tomb of Karaca Bey, an Ottoman standard bearer who in 1410 ate a flag rather than let it be captured by the enemy. When his captors did not believe him, he cut open his stomach and pulled out the flag. Glorious.
Anzac Cove, with Sphinx Rock in the background
A monument to a Turkish soldier who saved an Australian soldier.
Australian Cemetery
Both sides had around a 60% casualty rate caused by desperate fighting to claim the high ground. Its advantages are abundantly clear.
We took a ferry across the Dardanelles from Eceabat to Canakkale. The big vehicle is the ridiculous Marshrutka we rented to drive around Turkey.

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Istanbul

My family and I visited Turkey for winter break. Istanbul -> Gallipoli -> Troy -> Pergamom -> Ephesus -> Batumi -> Kutaisi -> Akhaltsikhe.
Blue Mosque
The back column is what's left of the Hippodrome.
A gift from Kaiser Wilhelm II. Bad call, Young Turks.
Hagia Sophia
Church -> Mosque -> Museum
Ottoman Sultan's tombs on the premises.
Entrance to the Harem at Topkapi Palace, where the Ottoman Sultans ruled.

The Golden Cage, where the heirs to the throne were kept imprisoned in luxury until it was their time to rule.
Ottoman Seal
Ottoman Coat of Arms
Galata Tower


The Panorama 1453 Museum, which details Sultan Mehmed II's capture of Constantinople. It has an awesome (wait for it) panorama of the event inside. The Theodosian Walls are in the background.
Chora Church, a museum full of beautiful mosaics.


Istanbul is full of stray cats, inside and out.
The Column of Constantine next to the Grand Bazaar.
I like squirrels.
Sarah likes Ataturk.
Sarah and I hiked along the Theodosian Walls near Topkapi Palace. They are largely inhabited by homeless people, who also have the best view of the Bosphorus.
Among the sketchier things I've done: Sarah and I hiked along a train track until we came to a station, hopped up on the boarding platform, and exited the station.
The Basilica Cistern, where water was stored in ancient Constantinople.
Medusa Head
Valens Aqueduct
Rumelihisari, a fortress I saw on a Bosphorus tour.
I also saw a Turkish submarine, nbd.

Saturday, January 26, 2013

Atskuri Fortress

First built in the 5-6th  centuries, Atskuri Fortress was a key defense point on the border of Samtskhe and Southern Georgia along the Mtkvari River.
It was expanded many times, notably in the 9-10th centuries, and Ottomans held it from the 16th century until 1829.
The back wall of the fortress had fallen apart, so Sergei and I climbed to the top of the fortress through the breach.
The town of Atskuri


A mystery door?
Where does it go?
Turns out it was the secret entrance to the fortress!

Pretty neat.